LEON to MAZARIFE — 14 miles

During the middle of the night I was so cold even though I was under a warm down comforter.  My body was warm on the outside but it felt so cold inside.  Finally about 3am I took an Ibuprofen and was able to go back to sleep.  

When I was ready to leave I wasn’t sure how to get back on the Camino.  So when we checked out of the hotel I asked the desk clerk where the Camino was.  He said, “Do you want the long way or the direct way?”  And I told him I wanted the direct way.  He then got out a map and showed me both routes.  The regular route (how it showed to go in Brierley’s book) went North, circled around, then wound through little streets before heading West.  The direct route headed directly West.  That was a no brainier.  We had cafe con leche and a pastry and I headed off, passing this beautiful Parador (the one where Martin Sheen stayed in the movie “The Way).


The path was not well marked and I was walking through the busy streets of Leon, with lots of noise and traffic.  So I decided to slow down, not pass anyone and just follow the other Trekkers.  We were walking single file along the sidewalk.


I ran into that guy who pulled his things in a cart.  He was stopped on a street corner and was explaining to other curious Trekkers how the cart was attached to the harness around his waist.


It was 2 or 3 miles of a gradual incline and several hills before we were able to get away from the sounds of the city.


This area had a bunch of dwellings or cave like structures dug into the side of the hill.  

Just as I thought I was out of Leon I entered another town.  I was walking by a cute sidewalk cafe when I spotted Brian and Lesley.


They were just finishing their coffee so we all walked together until Lesley spotted this unusual looking building with huge bronze statues across the front facade.  It was actually a church, and the shrine of the “Virgin of the pilgrim route to Santiago de Compostela.”


The facade represents the mysteries of the Rosary.  The statues below are to the left of the door and have an actual rosary hanging around their necks.  And next to the building is one of the tallest crosses I’ve ever seen.

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We went into the church and it was beautiful with stained glass windows and a stunning alter area.  There was also a priest inside who stamped our pilgrim passports.  

Back on the Camino we came to a choice — walk along the highway to Villadangos or through the countryside to Mazarife.  We chose Mazarife.  The terrain took us up and down hills, by beautiful fields and through mud, muck and water.  In one spot my left foot got fully emmersed in water because there was no place else to step.  When Brian spotted other Pilgrims he wanted to have his picture taken with all of them.


A little farther up the road Dick was waiting for me so we could have coffee but nothing was open in what seemed like a little ghost town.  Once again Brian (Mr. Congeniality) called to every Trekker passing by to come have their photo taken with us.  Dick was the photographer and every person there handed their camera or cell phone to him to get a picture of their own.


I decided I’d split from Lesley and Brian because I just wanted to walk, not stop to take so many photos, and I was good with walking alone.  The terrain went up and down with quite a few hills and crops of barley and the yellow plant that canola oil is made from.



I was hot and sweaty by the time I reached the town that I thought was Mazarife.  It seemed like a big enough place but as usual did not have any signs saying which town it was.  It was really old and had some historic looking buildings.



I was wondering where Dick was, he usually would come to meet me but I couldn’t find him anywhere.  I walked through town on the Camino path then got off the path and searched everywhere for him.  No Dick!  So I texted him and said, “Where am I???”  I was so deflated when he told me I was 3 miles away.  So I kept walking, and walking and got farther out of town but there were no Camino signs.  Then I came to a fork in the road — no Camino signs.  So I retraced my steps and found someone who told me the Camino was way back where I had first come into town.  So back I went, got on the right path and walked 3 more miles until I saw Dick walking towards me.  

Once we were at the hostel I flopped down on a lounge chair on the front lawn and stayed there for the next hour.  Dick had bought me a liter bottle of Nestea so I asked the manager for ice and a glass.  Well, all she heard was ice because a few minutes later she brought me a huge block of ice wrapped in a towel.   I started laughing and told her “ice in a glass.”  So she went back, chipped some off the huge slab and brought it in a glass.  After I had downed 4 glasses of Nestea I went in and showered and came back out to sit some more.


Walking around and exploring this little village we spotted some stork nests on top of the church tower.


We went into a bar to have a drink and spotted Brian and the 2 Brits on the patio.  Leslie showed up later and we all agreed to meet back at 7pm for dinner.  In the meantime we toured the inside of the 16th century church, gave a donation and a sweet lady tried to explain things to us in very broken English.



At 7pm we all met back at the bar for the “Menu Del Dia.”  We were joined by Rod from Sacramento and Carol from Australia, who was 75 years old and walking the Camino alone.  There were 9 of us in all and as we sat  in a covered part of the patio it started to rain.  None of us had brought rain gear to the bar.  Then out of the blue Brians eyes lit up and he said “Let’s photo bomb the bar!”  So we all got up and went in the restaurant part — made the people in there get up and we got this fabulous photo.


And here’s how we finished our get-together.  Leslie had borrowed my hat today because her ears were getting sunburned.  She loved the hat and said she needed to buy one like it.  Well I knew she wouldn’t be able to because we were in a bunch of small towns and they wouldn’t be selling that kind of hat.  Then Dick told me when he checked in they gave him some kind of package and he didn’t know what was in it.  So I went back in the room and opened it and there were 3 things inside.  A lanyard — no need for that.  A plastic case to put a passport in — too small, the passport won’t fit into it — no need for that.  And a hat — just like the one Leslie had borrowed from me.  OMG — I gave the hat to Lesley at dinner and she was thrilled.  She kept holding the hat and stroking it like it was the best gift anyone had ever given to her.  

There is a saying here that people use over and over again and that is:  “The Camino Always Provides,” and this was yet another example of that happening.  

Dick, Carol and I were delighted as we ran the 4 blocks back to our hostel in the pouring rain.



10 thoughts on “TREKKING — DAY 21”

  1. Oh how I loved reading this post. It sounds like you are managing to squeeze in some fun along the way. And how you are able to have enough energy to go out sight seeing after walking so far is pretty amazing! Big hugs girlfriend. You impress the #€[% out of me! Keep on trecking…

  2. I was out town and somehow didn’t continue to receive your posts by e-mail, so I re-subscribed and got caught up with the past days. I felt like I was reading an enjoyable book…your descriptions and photos of the trek and the people are inspiring and heartwarming. (If I was planning to travel the Camino, I would certainly buy your book!).

  3. Love the hat story! It goes to show you that everything has a reason. So nice to see the same group of familiar faces on the trail but I would appreciate the quiet times by myself too. Awesome job! ❤️

  4. Wonderful. This actually sounds like fun – except for the being lost parts. I have no sense of direction and would be starting to panic. You’re amazing and so glad you are also able to get in a bit of sight seeing in the towns. xoxox Joy

  5. Just got caught up. Sat and listened to the new Radiohead album and read all the posts (which song on the new album is your favorite – and I don’t want to read that you don’t know who Radiohead are.) Anyway, sounds great and Dad is providing as much, if not more, than the Camino is. He and the camino make a sweet couple.

    1. Actually Eric, I do listen to RadioHair — love their music. Oh, did you say RadioHead?? Hummmm. And yes, your father does provide so much more than the Camino. So instead of saying the Camino Provides should I just say “Dick Provides??” Might get taken the wrong way!

  6. Hi,

    Whew. You walk faster than I can read your posts!!!

    Love this one and all the comments.

    Hi Dick.

    Keep up the good work, Karen.

    Be safe.


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